Framing watercolor paintings isn’t just about finding a nice border; it’s about protecting and enhancing the artwork. Watercolors are delicate—susceptible to light, humidity, and even improper materials used during the framing process.
This makes choosing the right frame, matting, and glazing critical to preserving both the beauty and longevity of the painting.
In this article, I’ll break down everything you need to know about framing watercolors, from using acid-free mats to selecting the right UV-protective glass.
You’ll learn how to avoid common mistakes, protect your artwork from damage, and make sure it’s displayed in the best possible way.
Whether you’re looking at custom framing or ready-made frames, understanding these steps will ensure your watercolor art is properly preserved and beautifully presented.
Traditional Framing Methods for Watercolors
Matting and Frame Selection
When it comes to framing watercolor paintings, the choice of matting and frame plays a crucial role in both protection and presentation.
Acid-free mats are a must. Watercolor is delicate, and any acidic material can cause long-term damage to the artwork.
I always recommend going for an archival quality mat board to ensure the artwork stays preserved for decades. The matting not only serves to protect the piece but also provides space for the painting to “breathe.”
Mat board options come in a variety of colors, but subtle, neutral tones tend to work best, allowing the focus to stay on the artwork itself.
Choosing the right frame is also critical. Custom framing is ideal since it allows for precise measurements and material choices, but ready-made frames can work as long as they are of high quality.
For watercolors, wood frames are the most common, though metal frames can offer a modern twist depending on the aesthetic of the piece.
Frame molding profiles vary widely, from simple, clean lines to more ornate designs, but the rule of thumb is to let the artwork speak, not the frame.
Glass and Glazing Options
Watercolors are fragile when it comes to environmental factors. Exposure to direct light, dust, and moisture can cause deterioration, so it’s important to choose the right glazing for the frame. UV-protective glass is standard in conservation framing because it helps block harmful light that could fade the colors.
Some prefer non-glare glass or acrylic, which reduces reflection and provides a clear view of the painting, but it’s important to consider whether the additional glare reduction is worth the potential trade-offs in clarity.
Protective frame glazing also comes in varying levels of thickness. For high-value pieces, opting for thicker, museum-quality glass or acrylic can make a difference in long-term preservation.
However, for most watercolor paintings, a standard thickness of UV-protective glass will usually suffice, balancing protection and cost.
Mounting Methods
When it comes to mounting the artwork itself, dry mounting is a method to avoid with original watercolors. While it provides a flat, smooth appearance by permanently adhering the painting to a backing board, it’s irreversible and risky for valuable pieces.
Instead, I always go with conservation mounting techniques, such as hinging the painting using archival tape. This method allows the painting to stay flat while preserving the ability to remove it without damage in the future.
For particularly large or heavy watercolor pieces, it might be necessary to use a floating mount technique.
This allows the entire artwork to be visible, including the edges, giving the illusion that the painting is floating within the frame. It’s an elegant way to display watercolors, though it requires careful handling to avoid damaging the fragile edges of the artwork.
Pitfalls in Traditional Framing
One of the common pitfalls in framing watercolor paintings is failing to consider UV-protective glass. Without it, the watercolor can fade quickly, especially if exposed to sunlight.
Another mistake is using acidic matting, which can lead to yellowing and degradation of the artwork over time.
While it might be tempting to cut costs, using non-archival materials will inevitably lead to damage.
Another problem I see frequently is improper hanging systems for art. Without the right hardware, framed watercolors can shift, fall, or even break the frame.
It’s important to use high-quality, stable hardware, such as proper hanging wire and hooks, designed to support the weight of the frame.
Even small mistakes in mounting or hanging can lead to unnecessary stress on the frame and glazing, which in turn can damage the artwork.
Alternatives to Traditional Framing: Framing Watercolors Without Glass
Framing watercolors without glass is possible, but it comes with specific challenges. Watercolor paintings are more fragile than oil or acrylic pieces. They need protection, but using glass isn’t the only solution. Let’s break down the options.
Varnishing as a Protective Layer
One way to avoid glass is by applying a varnish directly to the painting. A UV-protective varnish creates a shield over the delicate surface of the watercolor.
The varnish protects against fading and dust, but it’s a permanent solution.
Once varnished, the texture and finish of the watercolor will change, giving it more of an acrylic-like look. This option is for those who don’t mind altering the original appearance of the painting.
The most common varnishes used are spray varnishes designed for watercolor, ensuring even coverage without disturbing the pigments.
A key point to remember here: this method isn’t for every artist or collector. Some prefer the watercolor to retain its original matte and fragile nature, making varnishing controversial in certain circles.
Canvas Mounting
Another way to frame without glass is by mounting the watercolor on canvas. Watercolor paper framing doesn’t have to stick with mats and traditional frames.
Mounting on a canvas gives the artwork a sturdier backing and can be displayed like any acrylic or oil painting. However, this involves adhering the watercolor to the canvas, and it has its risks.
Dry mounting can be an irreversible process. The adhesive may damage the artwork over time, and it’s not a conservation-friendly method.
But for those who want a more modern presentation without the reflection of glass, this is an option that has grown in popularity. Just remember, once it’s mounted on canvas, the painting is committed to that format.
Acrylic Coatings
Acrylic coatings provide an alternative to glass framing. These clear, hard coatings offer a durable and non-glare finish that still protects the artwork from UV rays and dust.
It’s lighter than glass and much more durable. The painting is sealed in, almost like a resin, and can be hung without any additional protection.
Non-reflective acrylic also eliminates the visual barrier that traditional glass introduces, providing a direct viewing experience.
But again, like varnishing, the painting’s surface is altered. Some artists and collectors might feel it detracts from the essence of watercolor’s delicate texture.
Pitfalls of Glassless Framing
One major pitfall is archival quality. Without glass, there’s a higher chance of long-term damage if not done correctly. If the varnish or acrylic coating isn’t applied perfectly, or if low-quality materials are used, the painting might still deteriorate.
Moisture exposure is another risk. Unlike traditional conservation framing, which relies on glass to create a sealed environment, frameless methods leave the artwork more vulnerable to humidity and temperature fluctuations.
Customizing Your Frame for Aesthetic and Protection
Choosing the Right Mat
Matting is more than just a backdrop. It’s about art preservation and enhancing the overall aesthetic. For watercolors, acid-free mats are essential. Anything else risks damaging the artwork over time. The color choice matters too—stick with neutral tones to avoid pulling attention away from the painting.
But size matters more than color. A wider mat creates breathing space between the art and frame, giving the watercolor room to stand out.
Some prefer to use double or triple mats for added depth. This isn’t just for visual interest; it helps keep the artwork away from the glass, which is critical to avoid moisture buildup.
Frame Selection and Style
When framing watercolor paintings, the frame is more than a border. It’s the boundary between the artwork and the world.
Wood frames are a classic choice—simple, elegant, and versatile. But metal frames offer a sleek, modern option, and for some pieces, that’s exactly what’s needed. Either way, the frame shouldn’t overpower the art.
Custom framing gives you full control. With custom frame dimensions, you can tailor every element to fit both the artwork and the space it will hang in. Ready-made frames are convenient, but they often require compromises in size or style.
Frame molding profiles add another layer of customization. Thin profiles give a minimalist look, while ornate moldings can create a more traditional, gallery-style presentation. It all depends on the aesthetic you’re after.
Glass and Glazing Options
Protection is key, and that’s where UV-protective glass comes in. Without it, sunlight will cause the vibrant hues of your watercolor to fade over time. But standard glass has drawbacks—it reflects light and creates glare.
Some prefer non-glare glass or even acrylic, which is lighter and shatterproof, though it can scratch more easily than glass.
The thickness of the glass matters, too. Protective frame glazing isn’t one-size-fits-all. For valuable pieces, consider museum-quality glass, which provides the best clarity and UV protection. For most, though, standard UV-protective glass strikes the right balance between cost and protection.
Pitfalls in Customization
The biggest pitfall is trying to do too much. Overly ornate frames or bold mat colors can distract from the artwork.
Conservation framing requires careful material selection—non-archival mats or backing will deteriorate over time, harming the artwork.
And without the proper hanging systems, even the most beautifully framed piece can fall victim to poor display techniques.
Preservation and Protection of Watercolor Art
Archival Materials and Techniques
Watercolors are sensitive. The pigments can fade, paper can yellow, and moisture can warp. To preserve them properly, archival materials are non-negotiable. Start with acid-free mats and backing materials.
These ensure that the artwork won’t degrade due to acidity over time. Anything else invites slow but steady damage.
Archival framing materials include acid-free backing boards and mats, which act as a buffer between the art and the frame. When working with valuable pieces, always prioritize these over cheaper options.
UV-Protective Glass
Light is the silent enemy. Without UV-protective glass, colors will fade. Even indirect sunlight can dull the vibrancy of a watercolor.
This type of glass blocks harmful rays while still allowing the viewer to fully appreciate the work.
Some prefer non-glare glass to avoid reflections, but the downside is clarity loss. Personally, I stick with standard UV-protective glass for most pieces unless I’m dealing with very harsh lighting conditions.
Avoiding Moisture and Humidity
Water and paper don’t mix, obviously. That’s why it’s critical to avoid exposure to moisture or high humidity.
Even with proper framing, humidity can sneak in and warp the paper. The best solution? Store watercolors in a dry, stable environment.
If the artwork will be displayed in a high-humidity area, consider using desiccants in the frame or ensuring the frame is properly sealed to keep moisture out. An improperly sealed frame can result in condensation inside the glass, damaging the artwork permanently.
Frame Spacers and Matting
The painting should never directly touch the glass. Frame spacers or mats keep the watercolor from pressing against the glass, preventing moisture buildup and sticking.
When framing watercolor paintings, it’s not just about appearance; it’s about making sure the art can “breathe.” The space allows airflow between the art and the frame, which is crucial for maintaining the artwork’s integrity over time.
Pitfalls in Preservation
One of the most common mistakes? Skipping UV protection. It seems unnecessary until your once-bright watercolor starts looking washed out and faded.
Another pitfall is failing to use archival materials—saving a few bucks on mats or backing can lead to irreversible damage.
Common Mistakes to Avoid in Framing Watercolors
Using Non-Archival Materials
If there’s one mistake you can’t afford to make, it’s using non-archival materials. Watercolors are sensitive, and even a slightly acidic mat or backing will eventually cause damage.
Acid-free mats and archival framing materials are essential to avoid yellowing and deterioration over time. Some people cut corners to save money, but that short-term thinking leads to long-term destruction.
Forgetting UV Protection
Skipping UV-protective glass is another big one. Watercolors are notorious for fading when exposed to light, especially direct sunlight. Even indirect light can break down the pigments over time.
Some people think glass is just for dust protection, but without UV protection, you’re practically inviting the sun to bleach your artwork. Once it fades, there’s no reversing it.
Allowing the Painting to Touch the Glass
Here’s something you don’t want: the artwork sticking to the glass. It’s an easily avoidable but common error when framing watercolor paintings.
Always use a mat or frame spacers to keep the painting from direct contact with the glass. This space isn’t just for airflow; it’s essential in preventing condensation and moisture damage, especially in humid environments.
If the watercolor sticks, you’re looking at serious restoration efforts—or worse, permanent damage.
Choosing the Wrong Frame Size
The frame should complement the art, not overpower it—or worse, leave it floating awkwardly in too much empty space. Oversized frames make the artwork seem lost, while a too-small frame crowds it.
Pay attention to custom frame dimensions or choose a ready-made frame that fits snugly without overwhelming the piece. The frame molding profiles also matter—don’t pick something too bold unless that’s really the look you want, which, trust me, often isn’t the case with watercolors.
Skimping on the Matting
No mat or an improperly sized mat is a mistake I see all the time. The mat not only helps protect the artwork, but it enhances its presentation.
Opt for acid-free matting, and go with a width that gives the artwork breathing space.
Don’t skimp on this. A narrow mat can look cheap and detract from the piece, while a wider one can make the artwork feel more expansive.
Poor Hanging Hardware
So many people underestimate how critical hanging systems for art can be. Cheap wire or hooks that aren’t suited for the weight of the frame can cause the artwork to tilt or even fall.
It might seem like a small detail, but improper hardware puts your watercolor at risk, not just the frame.
FAQ on Framing Watercolor Paintings
What materials should I use for framing watercolors?
Always use archival materials. This means acid-free mats, backing boards, and UV-protective glass.
Watercolors are sensitive to light and acidity. Without proper materials, they can fade or yellow over time. Also, avoid dry mounting—it’s irreversible and risky for originals.
Is UV-protective glass necessary?
Yes, it’s essential. Watercolors are particularly vulnerable to sunlight. UV-protective glass blocks harmful rays that can cause colors to fade.
Even if the artwork isn’t in direct sunlight, indirect light can still degrade the pigments. Always choose UV protection to preserve vibrancy.
Can I frame a watercolor without a mat?
It’s possible but not recommended. A mat creates space between the artwork and the glass, preventing moisture buildup and sticking.
Without it, the watercolor may press against the glass, leading to damage over time. Acid-free mats are ideal to protect the piece and enhance its presentation.
Should I choose wood or metal frames?
Both work, but wood frames are more traditional and versatile for watercolors. Metal can give a modern edge but may not suit all pieces.
The frame should complement the artwork without overpowering it. Always consider frame molding profiles and choose according to the painting’s style and space.
How do I prevent my watercolor from fading?
Beyond using UV-protective glass, avoid hanging your watercolor in direct sunlight. Even with UV protection, prolonged light exposure is harmful.
Ensure proper sealing and consider climate control—high humidity can warp the paper. Proper framing with archival materials is key to long-term preservation.
Can I frame a watercolor without glass?
Yes, but it’s risky. Varnishing can protect the surface, but it permanently alters the painting’s appearance.
Without UV-protective glass, the watercolor is more vulnerable to light, dust, and moisture. If you go without glass, expect some level of degradation over time unless properly sealed.
What’s the best way to mount a watercolor?
Use conservation mounting. Avoid dry mounting, as it’s permanent and not recommended for original watercolors.
Instead, use archival hinges to attach the piece to the backing board. This method ensures the artwork stays secure while allowing future removal without damage.
How do I choose the right frame size?
Choose a frame that complements the painting’s dimensions. Too small, and the frame crowds the artwork; too large, and it overshadows it.
Consider using custom framing for exact fits. Also, think about mat width—it should balance the frame and painting without overpowering the artwork.
What should I avoid when framing watercolors?
Avoid non-archival materials, like acidic mats or backing boards, and never let the artwork touch the glass. Skip dry mounting for originals, as it’s irreversible.
Poor hanging systems can also cause issues, leading to falls or damage. Always choose quality materials to avoid these pitfalls.
How should I hang framed watercolors?
Use proper hanging systems for art. Install stable hardware, like D-rings and hanging wire, to ensure the frame stays level and secure.
Avoid placing framed watercolors in direct sunlight or areas with high humidity. Consider positioning in areas with controlled lighting and temperature for better preservation.
Conclusion
Framing watercolor paintings requires attention to both aesthetic and practical details. Using archival materials like acid-free mats and UV-protective glass is critical for long-term preservation.
These protect the painting from environmental factors like light and humidity, which can quickly degrade the delicate pigments.
Making sure the artwork doesn’t touch the glass by using frame spacers or matting is another essential step.
Custom framing gives you flexibility in choosing the right frame molding profiles and dimensions to suit the artwork, while avoiding common pitfalls like improper hanging systems or non-archival materials can make a significant difference in how well the piece holds up over time.
By following these key steps, you ensure your watercolor remains vibrant and well-preserved, ready to be displayed safely and beautifully.
Framing isn’t just about presentation—it’s about protecting the integrity of the artwork for years to come.
