Watercolor painting tools are more than just a brush and some paint—they’re essential for bringing any artistic vision to life with precision and control.
Whether you’re experimenting with techniques like wet-on-wet or creating fine details with a round brush, the quality and selection of your tools can make or break the result.
From Winsor & Newton paints to Da Vinci Brushes, each tool plays a specific role in how your work develops.
In this article, I’ll walk you through the essential tools every watercolor artist needs, from high-quality watercolor paper to the right palettes for mixing, and explain why brands like Arches Paper and Sakura Koi Watercolors stand out.
By the end, you’ll have a clearer idea of what tools will elevate your technique and help you achieve professional results in your watercolor practice.
Essential Watercolor Paints
Choosing the right paints for watercolor can shape how you work, what techniques you can explore, and ultimately the results you produce.
There’s no one-size-fits-all approach, but understanding the qualities of essential watercolor paints can elevate the entire process. Here’s what you need to know.
Student vs. Artist-Grade Watercolors
When you’re selecting paints, you’ll often come across two categories: student-grade and artist-grade watercolors. The biggest difference? Pigment concentration.
Artist-grade paints, like those from Winsor & Newton or Daniel Smith, are highly pigmented and have richer, more vibrant colors.
You don’t need much paint to achieve strong, saturated results. Student-grade paints, like Cotman Watercolors, have lower pigment levels and more fillers, meaning you’ll need more product to get the same intensity.
For beginners, student-grade might seem like a budget-friendly option, but you may end up using more paint to compensate for the lower pigment quality.
If you’re serious about watercolor, artist-grade paints will give you a better experience and more satisfying results.
Tube vs. Pan Watercolors
The format matters too. Watercolors come in tubes and pans. Tubes are more fluid, allowing for quicker mixing and larger washes.
They’re excellent for projects where you need a lot of color, like covering large areas with watercolor wash techniques. Brands like M. Graham Watercolors and Holbein Watercolors offer high-quality options.
Pans, on the other hand, are solid cakes of paint. They’re portable, neat, and work best for smaller details and sketches.
You’ll often see travel sets like Sakura Koi Watercolors in pan form. The choice between the two depends on your workflow and how much paint you need for a given piece. Both formats offer excellent results; it’s more about what suits your style.
Pigment Transparency
One of the defining characteristics of watercolor paints is their transparency. Some paints are more opaque, while others are more transparent, which affects how you layer them.
Transparent pigments, such as those found in Daniel Smith Watercolors or Schmincke Watercolors, let you create delicate layers and subtle effects.
They allow the light to pass through the layers, creating depth and luminosity. Opaque pigments, like those in some Holbein Gouache paints, are more covering and don’t allow much layering, but they’re useful for certain detailing brushes work and highlights.
Single-Pigment vs. Multi-Pigment Colors
Watercolors can be made from single pigments or multiple pigments. Single-pigment colors, like those in the Daniel Smith Extra Fine collection, provide more predictable results when mixing.
The fewer pigments in the mix, the less likely you’ll end up with muddy colors.
Multi-pigment colors can be tricky. While they might look vibrant on their own, mixing them with other colors can sometimes result in unpredictable or dull outcomes. If you plan on doing a lot of color mixing, stick to single-pigment paints from brands like Da Vinci Paints or Royal Talens.
Common Pitfalls with Low-Quality Paints
A lot of beginners start with cheap paints because they’re just testing the waters. The problem is, low-quality paints often have more binders than pigments, resulting in weak colors and inconsistent texture.
This leads to frustration when your washes come out uneven or when color mixing yields poor results.
Another issue? Fading. Cheap pigments tend to have low lightfastness, meaning your colors will fade over time, especially if exposed to light.
You’ll want to look for paints that mention good lightfastness, especially from trusted brands like Sennelier Watercolors or QoR Watercolors.
Watercolor Brushes
Watercolor brushes come in various shapes, sizes, and materials, each serving a specific purpose. It’s important to have the right tools if you want your techniques to show through in the best way possible. Let’s break down the essentials.
Types of Brushes
The most common brushes you’ll use are round brushes and flat brushes. Round brushes are versatile, great for everything from broad strokes to fine details, depending on the size and how much pressure you apply.
The point of a good round brush should spring back after each stroke, making it essential for controlled lines and intricate work.
Flat brushes are your go-to for wash techniques and covering large areas of paper quickly. If you’re doing large washes or bold strokes, a flat brush works wonders, especially with the soft, fluid motion you get from its broader surface.
For detailed work, detailing brushes (sometimes called liners or spotters) are invaluable. You’ll want a few on hand for those intricate highlights or delicate lines that need precision.
Natural Hair vs. Synthetic Brushes
Choosing between natural hair brushes and synthetic brushes depends on what you prioritize in your work.
Natural hair brushes, like those made from sable or squirrel hair, offer excellent water retention.
Brands like Escoda Brushes or Da Vinci Brushes make high-quality natural hair brushes that can hold a lot of water and pigment, letting you create smooth, continuous strokes without needing to reload frequently.
However, synthetic brushes have come a long way. They’re more affordable and still provide great results, especially for beginners or those using heavier gouache paints or acrylic painting.
Synthetic options, like Princeton Brushes, are also more durable and less prone to wear than natural hair.
Brush Sizes and Their Uses
Having a variety of brush sizes helps you adapt to different parts of your painting. Smaller brushes (like sizes 0–4) are perfect for detailing and fine lines, while larger brushes (sizes 6–12) are great for washes and color mixing across larger areas.
You might even want an extra-large wash brush for backgrounds, where a smooth and even gradient is needed.
Watercolor painting tools, especially brushes, can make or break the fluidity and control of your work.
Without the right brushes, achieving proper brush strokes or mastering techniques like the wet-on-wet technique becomes unnecessarily frustrating.
Common Pitfalls
The biggest mistake I see with watercolor brushes? Not cleaning them properly. It sounds basic, but if you don’t take care of your brushes, even the best Princeton Brushes or Raphael Brushes will deteriorate fast.
Paint dries in the bristles, they lose their shape, and before you know it, that perfect point on your round brush is ruined.
Another pitfall: using the wrong brush size for the task. If you’re trying to cover a large area with a tiny brush, it’s going to take forever, and your wash will likely be uneven. Conversely, attempting fine details with a giant brush just leads to frustration.
Watercolor Paper
Watercolor paper is not just a surface to paint on—it affects the outcome of your work as much as the paints and brushes you use. Picking the right one is critical.
Cold-Press vs. Hot-Press Paper
Cold-press paper, often called NOT paper, has a textured surface. This texture grabs the paint, letting you create soft edges and hold more pigment.
It’s the most commonly used paper for watercolor artists, and brands like Arches Paper and Strathmore Paper are well-known for producing high-quality cold-press options.
If you’re looking for smoother, cleaner results, hot-press paper is the way to go. It’s a favorite for those who want crisp lines and finer details, as the smooth surface allows for more control.
Fabriano Paper offers some of the best hot-press options out there. Just keep in mind that this paper doesn’t absorb water as quickly, so you’ll need to adjust your technique, especially when doing washes or using the wet-on-wet technique.
Paper Weight
Paper weight refers to how thick and sturdy the paper is. You’ll see it measured in pounds (lbs) or grams per square meter (gsm). The heavier the paper, the better it will handle water without buckling.
140 lb (300 gsm) is the standard for most watercolor work. It’s thick enough to handle most watercolor techniques, but you may still need to stretch the paper beforehand to avoid warping. Anything lighter, and you’re risking serious buckling.
If you’re working on larger pieces or really saturating the paper, opt for 300 lb (640 gsm) paper, which doesn’t require stretching and can handle heavy washes with ease.
Stonehenge Aqua Paper is a solid choice for heavy-duty work, known for staying flat even under multiple washes.
On the other hand, Canson Paper offers more budget-friendly options for those just starting out, but don’t expect it to hold up to too many layers or water-heavy techniques.
Paper Texture
Texture is another factor to consider. Cold-press paper is textured but manageable, great for most techniques. Hot-press is smooth and best for fine details. Then there’s rough paper—the most textured of them all.
It gives a dramatic, grainy effect that works well with expressive or loose styles, especially when you’re creating effects with a sponge or palette knife.
Common Pitfalls with Low-Quality Paper
The biggest mistake I see: using cheap paper. It might be tempting to save money by picking up a cheap pad from the craft store, but low-quality paper can’t handle water the same way.
It pills, buckles, and often dulls your pigments, no matter how high-end your watercolor painting tools are. You end up fighting with the surface instead of focusing on your painting.
Another problem? Using paper that’s too thin. Even if it’s cold-press, if the weight isn’t right, the paper buckles under even a moderate amount of water, ruining the flow of your work. Always check the weight before committing to a pad or block.
Watercolor Palettes
Watercolor palettes aren’t just about where you put your paint. They’re part of the process, affecting how you mix, control, and even experience color.
Types of Palettes
There are a few basic types to choose from, and each works differently depending on how you paint. Plastic palettes are lightweight and cheap, and they come in almost every shape you can think of. But they stain. Fast.
If you’re using strong pigments like those found in Daniel Smith Watercolors or Holbein Watercolors, you’ll notice the stains settle in quickly.
Then there are ceramic palettes. These are heavier, sure, but they’re the best for smooth mixing.
Paints won’t bead up as much on the surface, and it’s easier to see the true color you’re working with. For artists who care about color accuracy, ceramics are hard to beat.
Metal palettes with built-in wells are an option, too, especially in travel kits like those that come with Sakura Koi Watercolors. They’re compact and practical for on-the-go painting. But again, they’re prone to staining.
Palette Size and Shape
When you’re mixing colors, the size of your palette matters. A larger palette with multiple wells gives you space to mix colors without everything blending into a muddy mess.
Small palettes are okay for limited color ranges or simple sketches, but if you’re trying to do a detailed watercolor wash or create gradients, you’ll want the space to spread out your colors and pigments.
Round palettes, square palettes, those with a thumb hole for easy handling—they’re all about personal preference.
Just make sure whatever you pick gives you room to work. Brands like Jack Richeson offer sturdy options with well-arranged wells, but again, what matters is functionality for how you mix and paint.
Common Pitfalls with Palettes
A common mistake? Using a palette that’s too small. You get cramped, your colors start to run into each other, and before you know it, you’re mixing mud instead of clean colors.
Another issue: not cleaning the palette regularly. This leaves old pigment behind, which mixes into your fresh paint the next time you work.
Even the best watercolor painting tools can’t save you if you’re unintentionally mixing last week’s colors into today’s washes.
Additional Watercolor Supplies
When you’re working with watercolors, the main tools—brushes, paper, and paint—are only part of the equation.
There are a few additional supplies that can make your painting process smoother, cleaner, and a lot less frustrating.
Water Jars
You’ll need at least two water jars. One for cleaning your brushes and another for wetting them. It keeps your colors cleaner, and you’re not swirling dirtied water into your bright yellows or delicate washes.
I find mason jars or glass jars work well since you can see how dirty the water gets, unlike opaque containers where you only find out too late.
Masking Fluid
Masking fluid is crucial when you need to preserve the white of the paper. It’s a lifesaver for intricate highlights or fine details, like the glint on water or delicate veins in a leaf.
Brands like Winsor & Newton have good options. Just make sure to use an old brush or one specifically for masking fluid, as it tends to ruin anything decent.
Palette Knife
Sometimes, a palette knife comes in handy for scraping paint or adding textures, especially if you’re layering or experimenting with gouache or acrylic painting.
You wouldn’t typically think of it for watercolors, but it works surprisingly well in some techniques, especially when paired with rough paper to create dramatic effects.
Sponge
A sponge isn’t just for cleaning up messes—it can create some pretty cool texture in your washes. I like using a natural sea sponge for more organic effects, but synthetic sponges work too. You can dab excess paint, create clouds, or soften an edge before it dries.
Spray Bottle
A spray bottle is perfect for reactivating dried paint on your palette or wetting a large area of your paper before a wash.
Just a light mist can get the water moving again without over-saturating your paint or paper. Small, travel-sized bottles are ideal—easy to carry around and not too powerful.
Paper Towels
Underestimated but essential. Paper towels help control excess water, lift mistakes, or soften edges in your wash. I keep them close by for just about everything. Blotting, drying, or even cleaning your palette quickly when switching colors.
Common Pitfalls with Additional Supplies
The big issue? Forgetting to clean your masking fluid brush. Once it dries on the bristles, it’s nearly impossible to remove, and you’ll have to throw it out.
Also, oversaturating your paper with a spray bottle. It’s easy to go overboard and flood your work, causing the paint to bleed uncontrollably.
Advanced Tools to Elevate Your Watercolor Skills
When you’re past the beginner phase, some tools can really change how you approach watercolor painting. These advanced supplies are not about looking fancy—they genuinely expand what you can do.
Watercolor Pencils
Watercolor pencils are a hybrid tool. You draw with them like regular pencils, but when you add water, they turn into paint. This lets you get precise details that would be difficult with a brush. Brands like Faber-Castell are solid, offering rich pigments that blend smoothly.
You can layer them over your traditional watercolor work, or use them alone for sketch-like results that dissolve into a wash.
Water Brush Pens
A water brush pen combines a brush with a water reservoir, which means you don’t need separate water jars or brush cleaning. Just squeeze the handle, and water flows into the bristles. This is perfect for outdoor painting or quick sketches on the go.
I usually keep a couple in my travel kit, especially if I’m using a travel palette like those from Sakura Koi Watercolors.
Fine-Tip Liner Brushes
When you need to get down to the tiniest details, a fine-tip liner brush is indispensable. You can do intricate linework, add small details, or even write over your paintings with precision. Look for something like Raphael Brushes for excellent control.
These are ideal when you’re working on smaller pieces or adding detail work on a large watercolor.
Gouache for Layering
Gouache is opaque watercolor, and it’s perfect for layering over your regular watercolor when you need to correct or add highlights. The paint sits on top of previous layers instead of blending in.
Brands like Holbein Gouache or Winsor & Newton offer vibrant colors with great opacity. Gouache is a game-changer when it comes to adding depth or intensity that regular transparent watercolor can’t achieve.
Custom-Made Brushes
For those who really want to push boundaries, custom-made brushes are worth exploring. These aren’t off-the-shelf options; they’re tailored to specific techniques. Artists might use specially designed brushes for calligraphy, texture creation, or even stippling.
Da Vinci Brushes or Princeton Brushes can craft custom tools for more specialized needs, giving you an edge when a regular round brush just won’t cut it.
Common Pitfalls with Advanced Tools
One common mistake with advanced tools? Not practicing enough before using them in a final piece. It’s tempting to dive right in, but some of these require a bit of a learning curve.
Another pitfall is over-relying on tools like water brush pens—while convenient, they don’t give you the same control as traditional brushes, and they can limit your ability to control water flow effectively.
Organizing and Storing Watercolor Supplies
Keeping watercolor supplies organized can save you a lot of frustration. If everything’s scattered or hard to find, you’ll waste time setting up and might even lose some of your best tools.
Brush Storage
Brushes need to be stored upright, but don’t crush the bristles. A simple brush holder or jar works well. I like to use a Princeton Brushes roll-up case when I’m traveling, but at home, they’re all lined up in a stand.
Make sure they dry completely before storing them, or you’ll end up with mold or bent bristles. Sable brushes, like those from Escoda Brushes, especially need some care, as they tend to be pricey and delicate.
Paint Tubes and Pans
If you’re working with paint tubes, you’ll want to keep them sealed tight to prevent the paint from drying out.
I group them by color families—reds with reds, blues with blues, etc.—so I can find what I need without digging around.
Brands like Winsor & Newton and Daniel Smith Watercolors make highly pigmented paints that can last a while if stored properly. A drawer organizer or box can help keep them in place.
For pans, keeping them in a travel case is easy. Most brands like Sakura Koi Watercolors offer palettes that double as storage, so you can keep everything in one compact setup.
Just make sure to clean the pans regularly, or you’ll be mixing old dried paint with fresh color.
Paper Storage
Watercolor paper is sensitive to humidity, so storing it flat in a dry place is crucial. I use a flat file or drawer to keep sheets from curling or getting damaged.
Papers like Arches Paper or Stonehenge Aqua Paper are thick and heavy, but they can still warp if not stored properly. For pads, keeping them stacked with heavier books on top can help keep them flat.
Palette Maintenance
Palettes, especially ceramic palettes, can get crusted with dried paint if you don’t clean them right after use. A simple wipe with a damp cloth after every session keeps them in good shape.
If you’re using plastic palettes, be prepared for some stains, especially when working with deep pigments like those in Schmincke Watercolors. But the key is consistency—don’t let the paint build up, or you’ll regret it the next time you try to mix a clean color.
Common Pitfalls in Storage
The biggest mistake? Storing brushes while they’re still wet. This causes the bristles to splay out or grow mildew. Same goes for paint tubes—if you leave the caps off or don’t tighten them enough, the paint dries out, and it’s as good as wasted.
FAQ on Watercolor Painting Tools
What types of brushes are best for watercolor painting?
For watercolor, round brushes and flat brushes are the most versatile. Brands like Da Vinci Brushes or Escoda Brushes are reliable for holding water and pigment well.
Round brushes give control for detailed work, while flat brushes are great for washes. Synthetic brushes are more affordable and durable, especially for beginners.
Should I use tube or pan watercolors?
It depends on your style. Tube watercolors are great for mixing large amounts of paint and achieving vibrant washes, while pan watercolors are portable and convenient for smaller projects or on-the-go painting.
Daniel Smith Watercolors in tubes offer rich pigments, while Sakura Koi Watercolors in pans are ideal for travel.
How do I stop my paper from warping?
Paper buckling happens when it’s too thin or you’re using too much water. To prevent this, use heavier watercolor paper like Arches Paper (300 lb or more) or stretch the paper by taping it to a board before painting. This gives it more stability during washes.
Do I need a specific palette for watercolor?
Yes, a ceramic palette is ideal because it doesn’t stain and allows for smooth color mixing. Plastic palettes work but tend to stain with pigments like Schmincke Watercolors.
Ceramic palettes are preferred by many artists for their ease of cleaning and accurate color representation.
What’s the best way to clean watercolor brushes?
Use clean water and a gentle soap designed for brush cleaning. Princeton Brushes and other high-quality brands need extra care, so always rinse brushes thoroughly after each use and reshape the bristles before storing them.
Avoid letting them sit in water, as that damages the bristles.
How do I choose the right watercolor paper?
The weight and texture matter most. Cold-press paper has a slight texture, great for general use. Hot-press paper is smoother, perfect for fine details.
Heavier paper, like Stonehenge Aqua Paper, resists buckling without stretching and handles multiple washes without degrading or tearing.
What’s masking fluid, and how do I use it?
Masking fluid protects areas of the paper you want to keep white. Apply it with an old brush or a silicone tool, let it dry, paint over it, and then peel it off.
Brands like Winsor & Newton make excellent masking fluids that are easy to work with.
What’s the difference between natural hair and synthetic brushes?
Natural hair brushes (like sable) hold more water and provide smoother application, making them great for broad washes.
Synthetic brushes, like Princeton Brushes, are durable and less expensive. They can be great for beginners or artists using heavier paints like gouache or acrylics.
How do I store watercolor supplies?
Store brushes upright or in a roll-up case to protect the bristles. Keep watercolor tubes sealed tight to prevent drying out, and store paper flat in a dry space.
Use a palette with removable wells or clean it after each session to avoid contamination of colors.
Can I use regular paper for watercolor?
No. Regular paper isn’t designed to handle the water saturation that comes with watercolor techniques. It will buckle, tear, and degrade.
Watercolor paper, like Fabriano Paper or Canson Paper, is specially made to absorb water without breaking down, making it essential for this medium.
Conclusion
Watercolor painting tools play a significant role in shaping your work, from the quality of your brushes to the type of paper you choose.
Each tool has its purpose, whether it’s for creating smooth washes with round brushes or adding intricate details with fine-tipped options like those from Da Vinci Brushes.
Tools like masking fluid help preserve white spaces, while the right palette ensures that your colors stay vibrant and clean.
By understanding how to choose and use these tools, you’ll improve not only your technical skills but also your overall control of the medium.
Investing in high-quality supplies like Arches Paper or Daniel Smith Watercolors can elevate your work and help you achieve the results you’re aiming for.
Organizing and caring for your supplies is equally important. Proper maintenance keeps your materials in top condition, allowing you to focus on creating without unnecessary frustration.
